Under-extrusion: when a printer lays down less plastic than needed
Under-extrusion is a 3D printing flaw where less plastic comes out of the nozzle than the slicer calculated, so lines are thin and gappy and the part is weaker.
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How to recognise it
You can see it on a first layer that is sparse with gaps between lines, on walls that are full of holes, or on top surfaces where the infill shows through. In FDM printing, plastic is laid down from the nozzle and each line should have an exact width. If it is thinner, the bonds between lines do not form.
Weak bonds mean lower strength. On a functional part, under-extrusion is one of the first things to look for.
Common causes
- A partly clogged nozzle, see clogged nozzle.
- A nozzle temperature that is too low or a speed that is too high, so the plastic does not have time to melt, see nozzle temperature.
- Damp filament that bubbles in the nozzle.
- A badly set flow rate or a worn extruder.
- A tangled or jammed spool.
How to tell it from other flaws
Regularly alternating thinner and thicker layers are usually something else, especially Z-banding. The opposite of under-extrusion is over-extrusion, where there is too much plastic. Moisture and its effect is covered under filament moisture.
It helps to tell the cause by where it appears. If the flaw is there from the very start of the print, it is a setting or a clog. If it appears only later, the cause is often moisture, a tangled spool or overheating in the upper part of the hotend.
For your order
You choose the strength of a part when uploading, from 10 % to 40 % infill. If the model has walls thinner than 1 mm, under-extrusion shows sooner, so give functional parts a thickness of at least several lines, see wall thickness. We photograph every batch before dispatch, but we do not promise in advance that nothing will go wrong.
Common questions
Is under-extrusion a fault in the model?
No, the model is fine. It is dealt with on the printer or material side.
Does under-extrusion reduce strength?
Yes, gaps between lines mean weaker bonds, and so lower strength.
Does it apply to multicolour printing as well?
The principle is the same. With several colours there is also nozzle cleaning at every colour change, which is why multicolour printing costs more.
Related terms
Clogged nozzle
A clogged nozzle is a state where no plastic, or only a little, passes through a 3D printer's nozzle, so the print breaks off or under-extrusion occurs.
Flow
Flow is the amount of plastic the nozzle actually extrudes compared with what the slicer calculated. It is tuned with a ratio, for example 0.98, and affects both dimensions and surface.
Nozzle temperature
Nozzle temperature is the temperature the hotend is heated to so the filament melts. It decides how fluid the plastic is, how strong the bonds between layers are and how the surface looks.
Over-extrusion
Over-extrusion is a 3D printing flaw where more plastic comes out of the nozzle than the slicer calculated, so lines are thicker, the surface is lumpy and dimensions are larger.
Filament moisture
Filament moisture is water the plastic absorbs from the air. When it is heated in the nozzle it turns to steam and the print is spoiled.
Wall thickness
Wall thickness is the distance between the outer and inner surface of a part. In 3D printing it decides the strength and whether a thin detail prints at all.
SourcesSources checked 1 November 2026, 2
- Fused filament fabrication, Wikipedia, checked 2026-11-01
- Extrusion, Wikipedia, checked 2026-11-01
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No model? No problem, pick a ready one
These sites have thousands of free models. Download an STL or 3MF and upload it here. If you sell it or use it for business, check the model licence. How to pick a model and licence